If you feel overwhelmed by skincare, especially when it comes to anti-ageing, you’re not alone. Many women (and men) are trying to navigate a constantly evolving beauty landscape that feels more confusing than ever. New products, so-called miracle ingredients, endless step routines, it can be hard to know what’s actually helping your skin and what’s just noise.
The skincare industry is booming, with the global market expected to hit over €180 billion this year. Within that, anti-ageing is one of the biggest drivers, with luxury anti-ageing products alone worth around €50 billion last year. That’s a lot of advertising – and a lot of pressure to buy the next “must-have” cream or serum. But the reality is that too many products and too much layering can backfire.
We caught up with one of Corks’s leading authorities in skincare, Nurse Ryan Lumor Medical Aesthetician and co-founder of Filo Clinic in Ballincollig who told us that many of us may be sabotaging our skin by overtreating it. “When it comes to skincare, less can be more,” he said.
“As an aesthetic nurse with years of hands-on experience, I’ve seen the damage that overcomplicated skincare can do. We often meet clients whose skin is irritated, inflamed or congested, not because they don’t care for it, but because they’re trying to do too much. Ironically, their good intentions are what’s making things worse”.
“What many don’t realise is that overloading your skin with different actives, textures and ingredients can disrupt its natural barrier. This can lead to dryness, sensitivity, breakouts and inflammation, the very things we’re trying to prevent. A simpler, smarter approach almost always works better” .
Ryan often tells their clients that the real results come from getting a few fundamentals right, not from jumping on every skincare trend. He explains ‘And when it comes to anti-ageing, those fundamentals are what we call the “holy trinity”: a retinoid at night, vitamin C in the morning, and sunscreen every single day.
Let’s start with retinoids, because if you’re serious about skin health and slowing visible ageing, this is non-negotiable. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that increase cell turnover, in other words, they help your skin renew itself more quickly. When we’re young, our skin naturally renews every 28 days. But as we age, that slows down, causing a build-up of dead skin cells that can leave our skin looking dull, textured and uneven. Retinoids help speed that process back up. They also suppress pigmentation and stimulate collagen production, both of which are crucial in addressing fine lines, dark spots and skin texture. I often tell my clients, “If you don’t have a retinoid in your cupboard, you’re wasting your time and money on skincare.” Because without that nightly renewal, other products simply won’t work as effectively.’
Retinol is the form most people are familiar with, but according to Ryan it is actually the weakest. He explained “ It has to be converted twice in the skin before it becomes the active form – retinoic acid, also known as Tretinoin, which is prescription strength. This is the gold standard in anti-ageing. One product I personally recommend is AlphaRet, which combines retinoic acid with soothing, hydrating ingredients. It delivers the results of a prescription-grade retinoid without the usual dryness or peeling. You can use it every night without needing to ‘build up’ your tolerance. It’s costs around €150 and lasts around four months, and yes, it’s worth the investment. One pump a night is all you need, in fact five pumps will work exactly the same as one so don’t waste it. “
What about mid and lower range? The filo boss continued “ For those looking for a more mid-range option, Medik8 makes a retinal-based product that’s still very effective and faster acting than traditional retinol, priced around €80 to €100. And if the budget is tight, Cerave offers a decent entry-level retinol product for €30 to €40. I always say it is important to have some form of Vitamin A in your skincare routine to keep that skin renewal cycle going. So if you can’t afford the top end you will still get benefits from the more affordable versions. Of course, when you’re using a retinoid, you need to protect your skin during the day”.
Which brings us on nicely to another in Ryan’s holy trinity of skincare. “That’s where sunscreen comes in. One of the biggest mistakes people make is assuming a single application in the morning is enough. It’s not. Sunscreen wears off, from swimming from sweat out running or at the gym, rubbing your face and environmental exposure. It needs to be reapplied every three to four hours. Even sooner if you’re swimming or sweating”.
“Another big mistake is that people don’t apply enough. The general rule is one millilitre per square centimetre of skin, but how do you measure the face on your skin? You don’t ! So an easy trick is to use an amount that covers your index and middle finger. And no, the SPF in your foundation or tinted moisturiser usually isn’t enough unless you’re applying it as thickly as a proper sunscreen, which most people don’t. Sunscreen protects you from up to 98% of UV rays, and by doing that, you’re preventing the free radical damage that breaks down collagen and speeds up ageing. That’s why it’s part of the holy trinity. Without sunscreen, you’re essentially undoing the benefits of your evening retinoid”.
The third key player in any effective routine is vitamin C according to Cork’s leading skin specialist, which he explains is the most powerful antioxidant for the skin. “ It helps neutralise those free radicals from sun and pollution, boosts collagen production, and reduces pigmentation. But like retinoids, you need the right type and concentration. If your vitamin C is in your cleanser, you’re washing it off. If it’s buried in a moisturiser, it may not be effective enough to really make a difference”.
“A dedicated vitamin C serum is what I always recommend. Skinceuticals C E Ferulic is one of the best on the market, and their patented formula has been top of the industry for 25 years. Now that the patent has expired, we’ll be seeing dupes on the market. Already brands like Elf and Prequel are making good dupes at a much more affordable price. The key is choosing a product with the correct pH and active concentration, not all vitamin Cs are created equal. The pH balance is vital, because that controls how the ingredients are introduced to your skin barriers”.
Ryan acknowledges that at The FILO Clinic, they see every day how much confusion is out there when it comes to skincare. He continued “But it doesn’t need to be complicated. In fact, your best skin might just come from doing less, just doing it right, and you may in fact end up saving money by buying fewer products” .
For a free consultation check out thefiloclinic.ie
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