Our trip to Croatia came about for two simple reasons, there was a direct flight from Cork to Zadar, and my husband Neil wanted to go. So I thought, why not?
I didn’t do much planning beforehand, just a bit of casual research on Zadar, so I arrived with an open mind and few expectations. I had been to Croatia once before, back when it was still part of Yugoslavia. That trip was further north, and while I remember having a great time, the details are a little fuzzy all these years later.
After landing in Zadar we headed for Primošten, a beautiful coastal village with turquoise waters and a charming old town. Primošten was originally a fishing village island later connected to the mainland by a causeway. Although accessible by road today, it still has the feel of a medieval fishing community, even though it’s now a popular tourist destination.
You could easily spend a week in Primošten, and the biggest mistake we made was staying for just one night, although we did make a detour back for breakfast on our way home. There’s a lovely coastal loop walk around the village, and on the path we found a gorgeous restaurant, Konoba Capocesto. Here we enjoyed delicious food and excellent service, but the real highlight was dining beside the ocean, under the moon and stars. It was pure magic and one of my two favourite restaurants of the week.
Primošten has many lovely beaches, plenty of water activities, beautiful walks, and a fifteenth-century church known for its ornate altar and ceiling. Its hilltop position gives it spectacular views, including breathtaking sunsets. The old town, with its meandering little streets packed with shops, restaurants and cafés, is a little gem. You can take a ferry from Primošten to Venice, which makes it an ideal spot for a multi-destination holiday.
Next up we drove 60 km to Split for another overnight stop that included a walking tour of the city. Game of Thrones fans will love Diocletian’s Palace, which featured as the city of Meereen in the series. Dinner that night was another highlight, an enormous seafood platter bursting with flavour and freshness. A tip we picked up, which served us well all week, was to look for restaurants with the word Konoba for authentic Croatian food.
The following day we walked up 178 metre Marjan Hill, the highest point, for spectacular views of the city. It’s a lovely climb with plenty of trees and woodland paths as well as stepped sections. You can stroll along the seafront promenade or spend hours exploring the old town.
The car ferry to Brač is a law unto itself. The trip is beautiful, lasts about an hour, and usually runs on time. The problem is how boarding works. You might have a booking for the 2pm ferry, but that doesn’t guarantee you’ll be on it. If someone with a ticket for an earlier or later sailing shows up before you and gets in line ahead of you, they’ll get on and you’ll be left waiting. It’s a free-for-all once you’re in the queue, so arrive early.
Brač is the largest of the central Dalmatian islands in the Adriatic Sea and it’s a beauty. It’s famous for Zlatni Rat beach, considered one of the most beautiful in the Adriatic. It’s also known for its radiant white stone, which was used in Diocletian’s Palace and according to our tour guide was also used in the White House in Washington, although Google isn’t so sure about that. One thing that is for certain thought is that it was designed by Kilkenny architect James Hoban.
We stayed in the picturesque port of Milna on the western side of the island. Our Airbnb was right in the marina, and waking up to the sunrise and seeing the boats and daily activity outside made for a great start each day. We embraced the slower pace of village and marina life, where a simple morning walk for coffee became a highlight.
Local knowledge can transform any holiday, and we had it in abundance thanks to friends with a home on the island. They took us on a boat trip around Brač’s crystal clear waters, where we swam and snorkelled among vibrant sea life. We explored beautiful bays and coves and stopped at a smaller island for a long, leisurely lunch.
On Brač you can also join group boat trips that cruise along the coastline, or rent a smaller boat and explore at your own pace. Despite being the largest island in the region, Brač has held onto its authentic charm. The town of Bol is the perfect base, offering tours and activities, with hiking and biking trails through breathtaking landscapes. A full-day jeep safari takes you deeper into the island’s history and culture, stopping in Škrip, the island’s oldest village, home to a 16th century castle and a family olive oil museum dating back centuries.
Brač is renowned for its olive oil, tuna and salt, and after tasting them all, I can confirm they live up to their reputation. Whether dining at a seaside restaurant, enjoying bread or a pastry from a bakery, or enjoying coffee in a local café, the food scene is exceptional.
The other outstanding restaurant of the trip was Konoba Familja, set in a stunning location sweeping down to a turquoise bay. The carpaccio of squid, followed by lamb shank for Neil and a tuna stew for me with a side of roasted potatoes was award winning. The people at the table beside us swam back to their catamaran after lunch, while we were content with going for a dip before driving back to our apartment. It was idyllic and probably the best four hours I’ve ever spent over lunch.
We also took a trip to Supetar, close to the ferry terminal and accessible even if you’re travelling on foot. It has a decent bus service, a pebbly beach, and plenty of restaurants and bars.
We have a long list of reasons to return, including Bol on the southern coast, which we didn’t manage to see. Renowned for its natural beauty, especially the iconic Zlatni Rat beach with its ever-changing shape, Bol also has a charming historic centre with stone streets and waterfront restaurants.
We were sad to say goodbye to beautiful Brač and in order not to get stuck in a ferry queue, we took the 6.30 am sailing, where we saw a sunrise like never before, it was breathtaking. Next on the itinerary was Zadar , we had planned two nights there but, on our friends’ advice, cut it short and spent an extra day on Brač, which we could easily have stayed on for the full week.
Coming from the slow pace and calm of Brač as well as the charm of Primošten, we found Zadar a little underwhelming and over commercial. It was busy, crowded and not quite the vibe we expected. Apart from the city walls, the old town didn’t offer much, and the heavy graffiti as well as the high street shops like Mango took away from the atmosphere. That said, we enjoyed a wonderful meal by the ocean with excellent service, and were treated to a spectacular sky lit up in red during the blood moon eclipse, even if the clouds hid the moon itself.
We’d both return to Croatia in a heartbeat. There’s still so much to explore, and we’d highly recommend both Brač and Primošten for a holiday. The people are friendly and welcoming, the weather is perfect, the scenery beautiful and the food in Croatia deserves a review all of its own. It is a much slower pace than other holiday hotspots like France, Spain and Portugal and feels like you’re stepping out of this fast paced world into something more serene.
From Cork Airport: Ryanair flies into Zadar from June to the end of September & Aer Lingus flies to Dubrovnik from mid June until mid September.
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